HI,
ive have had similar problems too, first the unit stopped " hold" reformatted hard drive , worked for day or 2 , and then the same problem, reformatted hdd yesterday with a matrox program and a hdd sector checker and reported fine but this morning it wouldnt update the epg. does it sound like the HDD is having problems?
But 1.7.4, while not broadcast twice a week like it once was, has been broadcast at least once in the last few months so it sounds like you might have MuxD reception problems.
But you do realise that with a £5 cable you can EASILY squirt 1.7.5 into it anyway and get better graphics while you are at it?
But 1.7.4, while not broadcast twice a week like it once was, has been broadcast at least once in the last few months so it sounds like you might have MuxD reception problems.
But you do realise that with a £5 cable you can EASILY squirt 1.7.5 into it anyway and get better graphics while you are at it?
Cliff
Oooh, you had better point me how to do that then cliff.
As for MuxD - what kind of picture/sound quality do you get on The Hits, UK Bright Ideas, ftn ?? (and I mean what is your perception of it? - not some meaningless number listed for signal strength/quality by the box)
As for MuxD - what kind of picture/sound quality do you get on The Hits, UK Bright Ideas, ftn ?? (and I mean what is your perception of it? - not some meaningless number listed for signal strength/quality by the box)
Cliff
Picture quality on those channels is crap at the moment ??
Picture quality on those channels is crap at the moment ??
Ah well, all the hidden stuff that comes to a Fusion 1xx/2xx PVR arrives on channel 300 which is on the same Mux as those channels. So if they're crap so is any software update or EPG data that arrives (I'm surprised you haven't noticed the EPG data sometimes being less than 14 days on the day after a night when recpetion was bad).
The usual steps to improved reception apply:
1) make sure all aerial connectors firmly connected and clean plugs/sockets
2) remove any splits to other devices that aren't needed (like an old VCR you no longer use much)
3) consider buying higher quality cable for between wall and PVR
4) consider buying higher quality cable for all the way to your loft
5) consider buying an aerial booster for the front room
6) consider buying a masthead amplifier for the loft
7) consider getting an aerial installer to check your aerial alignment
8) consider getting an aerial installer to install a high gain wideband aerial
9) consider selling your house and moving to an area with better Freeview reception
10) (OK, that was not entirely serious!)
I had the dreaded 'hold' problem and got onto DigiFusion about it .... they sent me a new 3a PSU which totally cured my problem. AND THEN .... they sent me another. Anyone interested? £15 plus a couple of quid for postage?
HI , can someone post the make and model no's of HDD that can be used to replace fusion 40g HDD, as going through pages of posts is long winded a bit.
thanks
I use a Samsung SP1203N and it's been fine. It's 120Gb and seemed like the best drive to use as it's quiet and doesn't draw much juice. Seem pointless going for 160Gb as only 128Gb can be addressed by the Fusion anyway.
Had my 200 since March and had the powr supply replaced as the unit was supplied with the 2A one and wouldn't work out of the box (kept power cycling). Since then all has been perfect. Just got back from hols and looking forward to recordings......box turned on out of strandby and went to freeview picture fine. Went to library...all was well...plenty of recordings :-) Went to play first one and it started fine. As soon as I hit fast forward the screen froze and the box locked up. Unplugged the power but now all that hapens is....
1. The box lights up and says PLS WAIT - no fan
2. After about 1 min the fan comes on high speed and display still says PLS WAIT
3. After about another 30 seconds the fan goes into a slower mode. The display still says PLS WAIT but the remote control can now activivate the display to say it is receiving but nothing happens. Box still sits in PLS WAIT..no picture....just nothing works.
I don't think it is the power supply as I ended up with 2 of the 3A type and neither makes any difference. I'm thinking something more serious and it looks like a return job.
had to post this as I was an erstwhile sufferer of the infamous HOLD problem - first stop was the Digidave but after a few months, as well documented here, even that could no longer sustain the dreaded software update which churned my poor old 40gb disk into the grave. Actually the disk was fine although wiped completely - it's the onboard power supply electronics that let it all down.
Point is, I decided that the only way forward was to either stamp on the digifusion, or do the whole works to it. I chose the latter:
Capacitor mod - Didn't manage to scavenge the correct size cap but did bodge 2 smaller ones I found in an old pc PSU in parallel to get roughly the same value.
HD Upgrade - Seagate ST3160212A 160GB 7200RPM ATA/133 Hard Drive
I took the four rubber feet off the caddy and screwed the HD on using plastic motherboard fixing screws - keeps the HD away from the top of the case and the fan, and seems to have enough air clearance around it to keep it reasonably cool while working 24/7 for about a month.
Actually had a serial cable (don't ask me how or why!) so I used hyperterminal to upload the latest (custom) firmware - no 'generate scenes' rigmarole and I can read the text on the menus.
I have used it for a while ( a month or so) to make sure it didn't croak again but so far it works like a dream, more responsive, quieter, cooler, and the capacity of an aircraft hangar compared to before!
If you are going to fix the hold problem, I think it's definitely a matter of fixing everything - highly recommended mods, much easier to do in practice than appears in the mod pics. Thanks to all involved for giving me back hours of PVR in time for the World Cup!!
i'm trying to get my fvrt150 to come back to life, the original power supply packed up, then i got the sticky toffee effect a week after getting a replacement power supply. i want to try powering the hard drive with an atx psu, to which end i've bought one and connected it.
After an hour or so of banging my head on the floor i've come to the conclusion that despite it being "switched" it needs another switch like i have on my computers....which wires do i need to connect to make it produce the juice? I also suspect i have a further problem in that it is temperature controlled and sould be controlled by a pc motherboard...?
give me a V-Twin anyday
i would appreciate any help, even if it's to point me at an appropriate post, i've looked till my eyes have bled but i have not had much joy.
...it needs another switch like i have on my computers....which wires do i need to connect to make it produce the juice? ....i would appreciate any help, even if it's to point me at an appropriate post, i've looked till my eyes have bled but i have not had much joy
hi all,
I too have had problems just after the first year with the fusion 100, after reading all of the posts and replacing the psu , after it died, was still having problems and tried to re format and re program with the 1.7.5 bios with new graphics, which improved the look, thanks to who ever did the software program.
but you all seem to think that using the biggest cap is the answer "a 4700uF 200V for the 12v rail, and a 2200uF 16v " is one quote, this morning once again the unit is stuck in "HOLD" mode after the EPG update, so i have replaced the large black cap (C172) which states on it the value of "470uf 16v" it show signs of slight warming as the plastic is slightly shrunk, using a hot soldering iron slowly eased out the cap and replaced it with a "1000uf 16v" cap, only slightly bigger than the original. put unit back together and switch on the power and it worked and unit now works great no matter how many times the power is switched off it always turns on ok.
The original cap is 470uf so there is no need to use caps any bigger than 1000uf really and size is similar and NO long wires are needed just a nice neat job.
photo of new cap mod, the blue cap is the new one.(C172)
The original cap is 470uf so there is no need to use caps any bigger than 1000uf really and size is similar and NO long wires are needed just a nice neat job...
High Temperature Radial Electrolytic Capacitors
1000uF16V 105C maplin ref : DT69A costs 0.22p
Excellent feedback, boff1000, on the capacitor mod. Perhaps the original caps fail so often due to heat (you mentioned yours looked a little toasted) so the high temp ones you used sound ab fab. I'll add this update to the capacitor mod to my website.
Another forum member who is not afraid of a soldering iron. Whoohoo!
I'll add this update to the capacitor mod to my website.
All done. My website now contains an "Advanced" page where users can find links to the eBay repair guy and the 180Dukebox capacitor fix (with its variant by boff1000).
The eBay guy who fixed my FVRT150 and I mentioned in this Dead 150 thread is back, I have just searched for 'Digifusion Repairs' and this eBay auction 230001556172 came up.
As I said before I was very happy with the repair and price, so I mention it in the hope it helps someone who wants their FVRT repaired but does not have the tools, time or inclination to open the box up (like me!).
Comments
ive have had similar problems too, first the unit stopped " hold" reformatted hard drive , worked for day or 2 , and then the same problem, reformatted hdd yesterday with a matrox program and a hdd sector checker and reported fine but this morning it wouldnt update the epg. does it sound like the HDD is having problems?
I was hoping the nightly updates would update it to 1.7.5 automatically.
1.6.3 has its problems and I was hoping to be rid of that by now. :mad:
Any ideas ?
But you do realise that with a £5 cable you can EASILY squirt 1.7.5 into it anyway and get better graphics while you are at it?
Cliff
Oooh, you had better point me how to do that then cliff.
How do I get over MuxD reception probs ?
Mike
You could also start here: http://www.mousemat.f2s.com/FVRT100/firmwareUpgrade.htm
As for MuxD - what kind of picture/sound quality do you get on The Hits, UK Bright Ideas, ftn ?? (and I mean what is your perception of it? - not some meaningless number listed for signal strength/quality by the box)
Cliff
Picture quality on those channels is crap at the moment ??
Mike
The usual steps to improved reception apply:
1) make sure all aerial connectors firmly connected and clean plugs/sockets
2) remove any splits to other devices that aren't needed (like an old VCR you no longer use much)
3) consider buying higher quality cable for between wall and PVR
4) consider buying higher quality cable for all the way to your loft
5) consider buying an aerial booster for the front room
6) consider buying a masthead amplifier for the loft
7) consider getting an aerial installer to check your aerial alignment
8) consider getting an aerial installer to install a high gain wideband aerial
9) consider selling your house and moving to an area with better Freeview reception
10) (OK, that was not entirely serious!)
Cliff
Feel free to msg me.
thanks
I use a Samsung SP1203N and it's been fine. It's 120Gb and seemed like the best drive to use as it's quiet and doesn't draw much juice. Seem pointless going for 160Gb as only 128Gb can be addressed by the Fusion anyway.
http://www.samsung.com/Products/HardDiskDrive/SpinPointPSeries/HardDiskDrive_SpinPointPSeries_SP1203N.htm
http://www.ourcottage.plus.com/samsung/
Shock!! Horror!! You mean I'm running DOWNlevel firmware????? Not sure I can cope!!
1. The box lights up and says PLS WAIT - no fan
2. After about 1 min the fan comes on high speed and display still says PLS WAIT
3. After about another 30 seconds the fan goes into a slower mode. The display still says PLS WAIT but the remote control can now activivate the display to say it is receiving but nothing happens. Box still sits in PLS WAIT..no picture....just nothing works.
I don't think it is the power supply as I ended up with 2 of the 3A type and neither makes any difference. I'm thinking something more serious and it looks like a return job.
Any other ideas?
Thanks,
.Richard
No difference I'm afraid - thanks for the glimmer of home ;-)
had to post this as I was an erstwhile sufferer of the infamous HOLD problem - first stop was the Digidave but after a few months, as well documented here, even that could no longer sustain the dreaded software update which churned my poor old 40gb disk into the grave. Actually the disk was fine although wiped completely - it's the onboard power supply electronics that let it all down.
Point is, I decided that the only way forward was to either stamp on the digifusion, or do the whole works to it. I chose the latter:
Capacitor mod - Didn't manage to scavenge the correct size cap but did bodge 2 smaller ones I found in an old pc PSU in parallel to get roughly the same value.
HD Upgrade - Seagate ST3160212A 160GB 7200RPM ATA/133 Hard Drive
I took the four rubber feet off the caddy and screwed the HD on using plastic motherboard fixing screws - keeps the HD away from the top of the case and the fan, and seems to have enough air clearance around it to keep it reasonably cool while working 24/7 for about a month.
Actually had a serial cable (don't ask me how or why!) so I used hyperterminal to upload the latest (custom) firmware - no 'generate scenes' rigmarole and I can read the text on the menus.
I have used it for a while ( a month or so) to make sure it didn't croak again but so far it works like a dream, more responsive, quieter, cooler, and the capacity of an aircraft hangar compared to before!
If you are going to fix the hold problem, I think it's definitely a matter of fixing everything - highly recommended mods, much easier to do in practice than appears in the mod pics. Thanks to all involved for giving me back hours of PVR in time for the World Cup!!
After an hour or so of banging my head on the floor i've come to the conclusion that despite it being "switched" it needs another switch like i have on my computers....which wires do i need to connect to make it produce the juice? I also suspect i have a further problem in that it is temperature controlled and sould be controlled by a pc motherboard...?
give me a V-Twin anyday
i would appreciate any help, even if it's to point me at an appropriate post, i've looked till my eyes have bled but i have not had much joy.
ta in advance..........
Don't blow yourself up!
thanks mate, got it running... no i didn't blow myself up!
now to see if i can get this F***150 to work again.
thank you VERY much
I too have had problems just after the first year with the fusion 100, after reading all of the posts and replacing the psu , after it died, was still having problems and tried to re format and re program with the 1.7.5 bios with new graphics, which improved the look, thanks to who ever did the software program.
but you all seem to think that using the biggest cap is the answer "a 4700uF 200V for the 12v rail, and a 2200uF 16v " is one quote, this morning once again the unit is stuck in "HOLD" mode after the EPG update, so i have replaced the large black cap (C172) which states on it the value of "470uf 16v" it show signs of slight warming as the plastic is slightly shrunk, using a hot soldering iron slowly eased out the cap and replaced it with a "1000uf 16v" cap, only slightly bigger than the original. put unit back together and switch on the power and it worked and unit now works great no matter how many times the power is switched off it always turns on ok.
The original cap is 470uf so there is no need to use caps any bigger than 1000uf really and size is similar and NO long wires are needed just a nice neat job.
photo of new cap mod, the blue cap is the new one.(C172)
www.mrband.org.uk/fusion/cap1.html
hope this mod is much easier and quicker and these cap can be brought from maplins too.
High Temperature Radial Electrolytic Capacitors
1000uF16V 105C maplin ref : DT69A costs 0.22p
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx...=DT69A&DOY=24m6
hope this is ok
Another forum member who is not afraid of a soldering iron. Whoohoo!
Hope it helps someone, sometime.
As I said before I was very happy with the repair and price, so I mention it in the hope it helps someone who wants their FVRT repaired but does not have the tools, time or inclination to open the box up (like me!).
I know from this thread that the most likely thing that has gone is the psu. I am going to contact digifusion.
When I used an energymonitor (from maplin) it displayed the psu was still drawing 1.5A at 21Watts. Would this be the case even if the psu is failing?
I extracted the programs I wanted and then formated the hard disk on my PC, so I know the hard disk is ok.
Any feedback would be appreciated.